Schwanke-Kasten Archives | Page 3 of 4 | Schwanke Kasten

16 Oct

Non-Diamond Engagement Rings

The Beauty of Non-Diamond Engagement Rings

Is your soulmate one to skip to her own beat? Than you may want to consider non-diamond engagement rings. With brilliant marketing campaigns, such as “diamonds are forever”, and their stunning beauty, diamonds have been typically perceived as the norm for engagement rings. However, this hasn’t always been the case. In fact, prior to the 1930’s, other gemstones were often the centerpiece for engagement rings. At Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers, we’ll take a look at several non-diamond alternatives and why someone may opt to choose a precious gemstone for their engagement ring.

So why consider a non-diamond engagement ring? For one, you may have a family heirloom gemstone you can custom fit it as an engagement ring. This shows true love spanning generations and makes for a unique and deeply personal connection with the ring. You may opt to choose a ring based your bride-to-be’s birthstone.

Our SK Sapphire Diamond Engagement Ring

This beautiful example of displaying a birthstone (Sapphire is September’s birthstone) as the centerpiece of an engagement ring.

Furthermore, precious gemstones typically have various metaphysical properties. One common example, which is a Roberto Coin motif, is the ruby (specifically touching the skin of the bearer). The ruby, worn close to the skin, is said to “promoted long life, health and happiness and even today it is believed to possess these magic powers including the extraordinary ability to give peace” (Roberto Coin). Or, you may simply just want to be unique and use a non-diamond gemstone. Either way, there are plenty of alternatives.

Make sure to stop by Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers to see how we can help you find, build and guide you to the perfect engagement ring!

Stop by Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers today to see our beautiful collection of both diamond & non-diamond engagement rings.

18 Sep

Bridal Jewelry – Wedding Tips

In addition to diamonds being the center stone of the engagement ring and typically in the wedding band, they are also a popular choice for bridal jewelry! With the tagline, “Diamonds are Forever”, diamonds in bridal jewelry have quickly became associated with the strength and rarity of the beauty of your true love. Common examples of diamond bridal jewelry are diamond “tennis” bracelets, diamond-by-the-yard, pendant necklaces and stud earrings.

If you are looking for simplicity, the Roberto Coin 3, 5 or 7 Necklaces are great versatile choices. We love this Italian Jewelry Designer at Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers because every piece produced is adorned with their signature “hidden ruby”. This tradition stems from the “ancient belief of wearing a ruby close to the skin will promote long life, health and happiness and even…the extraordinary ability to give peace.Another common accessory for bridal jewelry is pearls. These lustrous, organic gemstones are rare and beautiful in their own unique way. Often associated with new beginnings, it is no wonder why pearls became a popular accessory for bridal jewelry. We typically find brides wearing pearls in the form of drop earrings or necklaces. One of our favorites, however, are these diamond and pearl drop earrings – beautiful and standout yet simple in itself.

Furthermore, other bridal jewelry trends we have seen are picking out a gemstone associated with the bride’s birthday.

The Knot offers 5 practical tips to picking wedding jewelry, two tips include considering the color and neckline of your wedding dress. We highly recommend stopping by our Whitefish Bay store to see our extensive selection. We’re certain that you’ll find something perfect for your special day!

01 Sep

Gold Wedding Rings – How to Choose

Traditionally, when we think of gold, we immediately go to the popularized images of the Gold Rush – miners digging in the riverbed, sifting out yellow gold deposits and then biting the gold. However, when you purchase gold jewelry, gold wedding rings, wedding bands and gold watches, they’ll almost never be soft enough to bite down to leave an impression.

Gold is measured in karats (with a “k”) and indicates the purity of gold, with 24k being pure. Pure gold is very soft and malleable which is why gold jewelry is created in 10K, 14K and 18K. When you have anything less than 24K gold, other alloys like copper, palladium, silver or nickel have been added to strengthen the metal overall. When you hear gold-plated, often the jewelry is silver with gold plating over it, which typically rubs off over time.

Gold Wedding Rings – Different Colors

So, what about gold in different colors? Generally, when you hear the word “gold” most people think of yellow gold. However, as we mentioned before, yellow gold in jewelry is not pure 24k. For example, with 18K yellow gold, the mix is 75% pure gold and varying amounts of silver and copper. Depending on the hue of gold (yellow, white and rose) and the karat weight, will determine the proper mix of gold and other certain metals.

When looking at the three basic gold colors – yellow, white and rose – there are benefits and drawbacks to all three:

Yellow gold is the most common, and least hypoallergenic. However it is the most prone, of the three, to scratches and dents due to the other 25% of its make-up.
White gold, because of its composition, is often stronger than yellow gold, and sometimes a bit more expensive because it contains silver or nickel, and palladium. However, jewelers will rhodium plate white gold to retain the whiteness of a ring. Just like gold plated jewelry, rhodium will wear off over time. When this happens, simply bring in your item(s) to be rhodium or gold plated at your local jeweler. Another important element to talk about is “nickel”, and with some people it causes an allergic reaction.
Rose gold (or red gold), is one of the more popular metal choices for engagement rings currently. Not only does the rose hue look great on most skin-tones, it’s also very affordable and durable due to the amount of copper present. But just like nickel, some people are allergic to copper too.

Non-Gold Wedding Rings

So what is metal another option if you are allergic to nickel and copper, and want a “white” gold ring? Jewelry made of platinum. As a matter of fact, many people choose platinum engagement rings because of their hypoallergenic properties, and because it shows a more “pure” white appearance. Platinum jewelry is more expensive because it’s a rarer metal than gold, and more durable. Although it weighs more and can scratch easily, the upside is your jeweler can “buff” the scratches out without changing the hue, as if it were gold or gold plated.

Did you know there are three more branded types of gold on the market? Well, you just might stumble across them when searching for high-end luxury watches. These gold types are:

King Gold, branded by Hublot, as an 18k red gold that is even redder than red gold due to the presence of platinum and high levels of copper.
Magic Gold, also branded by Hublot, mixes ceramic into its 18k composition to make it more scratch resistance.
Lastly, Everose, similar to that of Hublot, but developed and patented by Rolex. Everose gold uses platinum instead of silver which gives a lasting Everose hue for years to come.

So when selecting jewelry or an engagement ring, it’s important to consider budget somewhat, but allergies, skin tone, personal taste, and lifestyle. At Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers, we pride ourselves being able to assist our customers in selecting the perfect gift for any occasion.

31 Aug

Diamond Cut Grading – GIA Diamonds

At Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers in Milwaukee and Whitefish Bay, WI, we carry a full range of GIA certified diamonds for engagement rings. Over the past several months, we have been diving into how the GIA (Gemologists Institute of America) grades diamonds. In essence, GIA determines the quality of a diamond based off of a mixture of “4 C’s”; cut, clarity, color and carat weight. Today we are expanding on how the cut of a diamond affects its grade, diamond cut grading.

Courtesy of GIA.edu

Diamond Cut Grading

When talking about the cut of a diamond, we are referring to the physical shape of a diamond. The GIA will break down diamond cuts into two major categories, Brilliant Cuts and Fancy Cuts.

Brilliant Cuts

Jewelers will refer to brilliant cuts as a round brilliant diamond. Containing specifically 58 facets, this cut is generally the safest in terms of “sale-ability”, insurability and flexibility (when it comes to mountings). These facets and the relative proportions, although not agreed upon universally, are imperative to displaying the diamond’s brilliance, scintillation and fire along with its overall structure (symmetry, polish quality, weight to diameter and girdle thickness).

Fancy Cuts

Fancy cuts typically arise due to odd shaped rough diamonds or leftover rough diamond after a round brilliant has been cut from it. Furthermore, fancy cuts are more likely to appear on colored diamonds. The GIA will further divide fancy cut diamonds into three more categories:

Modified Brilliant – displaying a similarity of light play like a brilliant cut, modified brilliant cuts come in a wide array of styles. Marquise, heart, trillion, oval and pear cuts are the typical styles.
Step cuts – typically have a square or rectangular outline using step-cuts (parallel cuts to the girdle). However, despite the unique look, step cuts typically lose the brightness and fire that is associated with diamonds. Diamond cutters usually use step cuts to make emerald and square cut diamonds.
Mixed Cuts – Lately, diamond cutters are combining modified brilliant and step cuts to make a youthful cut diamond. Princess cuts and Radiant cuts are the most common styles.

Currently, the GIA only has a diamond cut grading standard for brilliant cut diamonds. In which, the GIA grades diamond cuts into 5 different categories: Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair and Poor. Trained gemologist grade the diamond by a number of factors:

Measurement – minimum diameter (mm) to maximum diameter to depth for round diamonds. The carat weight is also one of the factors in determining this grade
Polish Quality – absence of surface blemishes
Symmetry – exactness of outline to its shape, placement and alignment of its facets as it relates to its 58 facets.

So, if you are searching for a traditional round brilliant diamond, the cut grade will give you a lot of information regarding the quality of the diamond. Stop by Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers to see our full range of GIA certified diamond engagement rings!

14 Aug

Wedding.com – Engagement Rings

At Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers, we want your special day to be as exceptional as possible, which is why we are now featuring our location and selected bridal jewelry and engagement rings on Wedding.com from our flagship store in Whitefish Bay, WI. We know that many couples begin the planning process online. In fact, couples will look for engagement rings, wedding bands, and wedding jewelry and make decisions from there.

Wedding.com is perfect for helping couples plan their weddings. Moreover, the website allows couples to connect with vendors in their area based on their budget. It’s like having a wedding planner available to you 24-7. In addition, this tool helps couples stay on track accomplishing your special day.

So, if you are thinking about engagement rings or are looking for wedding bands for each other, something distinctive to wear on your wedding day or personalized items for those in your wedding party, please consider Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers for your special day. Located at 417 E Silver Spring Drive, 414-964-1242.

04 Aug

Diamond Vocab – Words and Phrases to Know

Picking out a diamond can be nerve-racking. Therefore, at Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers, our aim is to deliver the most comfortable engagement ring shopping experience as possible. In fact, we devised a quick “cheat-sheet” on diamond vocab that you should be aware of!

Diamond Vocab

“GIA” – Gemological Institute of America. In fact, this organization is one of the most well-regarded diamond grading laboratories and is responsible for developing the most widely used grading system.

“Four C’s” – Four qualities that determine the value of a diamond. They are Cut, Clarity, Color and Carat

“Cut” – The physical shape of the diamond as well as the effect of light that each shape plays on the appearance of the stone
- “Brilliance” – The combination of brightness, fire and scintillation
  - “Brightness” – The amount of white light returned back through the crown of the diamond. Both internal and external returned light
  - “Fire” – Dispersed light that appears in the color spectrum
  - “Scintillation” – Intense sparkles from light when the diamond moves. Generally, appears as black or white
- “Round Cut” – Most popular and greatest flexibility within the four C’s
- “Fancy Shape” – Any diamond shape other than round
  - “Emerald Cut” – Square or rectangular shape with cut corners. However, on the crown and pavilion there are three concentric rows cut (think stair steps)
  - “Radiant Cut” – Resembles the cut of an emerald cut but with the brilliance of a round cut.
  - “Cushion Cut” – Also referred to as a “pillow cut” are square or rectangular cut diamonds with rounded edges
  - “Princess Cut” – Resembles a square or rectangle
  - “Pear Cut” – Resembles a tear drop
  - “Oval Cut” – An elongated round cut
  - “Marquise Cut” – Similar to an oval cut but with definitive points at each end
  - “Trilliant Cut” – Resembles a triangular cut
  - “Heart Shape” – Resembles a heart
- “Clarity” –
  - “Inclusions” – Impure characteristics found within the diamond
  - “Blemishes” – External flaws on the surface of a diamond
- “Carat” – Refers to the weight or size of the diamond. All other factors equal, the more carets the more expensive
  - “Point” – Refers to 1/100 of a carat
- “Color” – Generally refers to the degree of absence of color.

Diamond Vocab – Parts of a diamond

“Crown” – The top half of a diamond
“Culet” – Protects the tip of the pavilion from being damaged
“Girdle” – The outer edge of a diamond
“Facet” – Any smooth flat surface of a diamond. Round brilliants almost always have 58 facets
“Table” – The largest facet and top part of the diamond
Pavilion – Lower half of a diamond

Diamond Ring – Diamond Vocab

“Mounting” – Is the full ring setting minus the “head” or center stone
“Semi-Mount” – A ring setting with the side stones pre-set. The main (center) stone is selected by the customer
“Shank” or “Band” – Refers to the metal of the ring that wraps around the finger
“Center Stone” – The main stone
- “Prongs” – Hold the center stone in place
“Side Stones” – Diamonds that surround the main stone
- “Halo” – Side stones that surround the main stone on all sides
“Shoulder” – Side stone diamonds that recede down from the center stone to the shank

Moreover, stop by Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers today to work with our highly trained sales employees and GIA certified gemologist to find the diamond as beautiful as your true love!

31 Jul

Diamond Clarity – 4 C’s

As we have been examining in-depth the elements that make-up the rare, natural diamond, we will take a look at the next property that gives diamonds their value – diamond clarity. According to the GIA, the clarity of a diamond refers to the “absence of inclusions and blemishes” (GIA). Due to the sheer amount of time, heat and pressure that occurs to form a diamond, irregularities may form. They may be internal (inclusions) irregularities to its carbon structure or external characteristics (blemishes) that can affect the clarity, and consequentially the value.

Diamond Clarity – Inclusions

Inclusions may occur from crystals from a foreign material, structural imperfections as well as defects arising from the cutting process. There are 10 types of inclusions that Beyond the 4 C’s, gives a great in-depth look at the various types of diamond inclusions should you be interested in learning more.

Blemishes

Blemishes on the other-hand are surface level attributes. They can occur due to structural imperfections and damages during the cutting process if handled incorrectly. There are 10 types as well.

GIA Clarity Grades

GIA certified diamonds became the standard of diamond grading in the 1950’s. Thus, most diamonds will be graded under the following scale for clarity which is based on visible inclusions and blemishes under a 10 x microscope (loupe) with a “dark field illumination”. It is as follows:

Flawless (FL) – no inclusions or blemishes visible under 10 x magnification
Internally Flawless (IF) – no visible inclusions under 10 x magnifications and small blemishes on surface
Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 & VVS2) – minute inclusions that are difficult to spot by a skilled grader under 10 x magnification
Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2) – minor inclusions that are somewhat easy to spot by a trained grader under 10 x magnification. Inclusions at this level are still likely to be invisible without magnification
Slightly Included (SI1 & SI2) – inclusions that are easy to spot when viewed under 10 x magnification
Included (I1, I2 and I3) – clearly visible to trained grader under 10 x magnification. These inclusions may threaten the durability and brilliance of the diamond.

In fact, on the GIA’s website, they have a wonderful interactive clarity chart that explains the various grades.

At Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers we use GIA certified diamonds from leading suppliers like Ritani, Forevermark and Naledi Engagement Rings. When purchasing a GIA certified diamond, you are provided a card detailing all the attributes of the diamond: cut, clarity, color and carat weight. Our goal is to provide you a confident and stress-free experience when shopping for your true love’s ring. Contact Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers today to schedule your personalized consultations with one of our GIA certified gemologists.

20 Jun

Carat Weight – 4 C’s of Diamonds

Today we finish our “Making of a Diamond” exposé with an in-depth look at carat weight. When a jeweler refers to the overall weight of a stone, the are referring to the carat total weight or CTW. It’s important to note, karat and carat are not the same. Karat is associated with gold purity, whereas carat measures how much diamond weight is in a particular jewelry piece.

Carat Weight Origins

So, where did the word “carat” comes from? Hundreds of years ago, traders used a carob for determining the weight of gemstones. A carob is a small seed from the St. John’s beard (or locust bean) plant) which is consistently uniform in size and weight; perfect for determining carat weight of diamonds. Jewelers and gemologist began officially using the term “carat” in 1907. Now, jewelers and shoppers universally use “carat” to measure diamonds and other valuable gemstones. One carat is equal to 200 mg (.02g), which is another way of looking at carat weight. The GIA likens carat weight to comparing a dollar to pennies. In other words, think of it “as a dollar divided into 100 pennies, a carat is divided into 100 points” (GIA).

It is worth noting, while the overall carat weight can increase the stone’s value (all other properties held equal), two stone of equal carat weight can have vastly different values due to differences in the other Four C’s. Jewelers will typically describe a diamond to the hundredth of a carat. However gemologist measure diamonds to the hundred thousandth due to the stone’s value.

At Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers, we have a variety of GIA certified diamonds of all sizes to meet the budget for your dream stone. Should you have any questions or would like to schedule an appointment with one of our GIA certified gemologist, please do not hesitate to reach out to Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers.

19 Jun

Diamond Color – Four C’s

Generally, when we think of diamonds we do not associate color to them. However, one of the four major “C’s” is diamond color or lack thereof. According to GIA, the foremost authority on diamond grading which Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers uses for their engagement rings, “a chemically pure and structurally perfect diamond has no hue, like a drop of clear water, and consequently, a higher value” (GIA).

Diamond Color

So EXACTLY how does a diamond not have color and how can a diamond inherit color? The most common occurrence with clear diamonds is the varying degrees of yellow/brown hues. This is graded on the universally accepted GIA scale from D – Z under very controlled lighting and viewing conditions. In fact, some of the color distinctions are “so subtle that they are invisible to the untrained eye; however, these distinctions make a very big difference in diamond quality and price” (GIA).

Colored Diamonds

However, jewelry auction house will place a premium on diamond color because they know they add value, just look at these incredibly expensive diamonds that have been sold lately! And while color can take away from the value of a normal clear diamond, it can also add tremendous value when the color is outside of the normal range of D – Z (delete color) grading. These colors can exist in the shades and hues of: red, blue, green, pink, yellow and even white and grey diamonds. As we mentioned before, these tend to occur because of one of two conditions.

Scientists know that chemical imperfections found in the diamond can cause color. Chemist believe high levels of hydrogen cause grey diamonds. They also know that a presence of boron can create blue diamonds, which are some of the rarest and often the most expensive.
Structural imperfections to the normal diamond lattice arrangement of carbon atoms can also lead to inclusions of color. Scientists believe green diamonds get their color from “radiation displacing carbon atoms from their normal positions in the crystal structure” (GIA).

In some cases, scientists are not even sure what causes the hue of a diamond. Pink diamonds are so rare that scientists can’t make a conclusion on the hue’s causation. However, it will likely be a matter of time before they discover a similarity among them.

Interestingly enough, GIA uses a separate scale to grade colored diamonds. The scale takes into consideration 27 hue varieties and saturation hue of 9 descriptors ranging from faint to fancy vivid.

Read more on Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers regarding the 4Cs and how to pick the perfect diamond for an engagement ring.

05 Jun

Diamond Cutting | Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers

As we have looked at the incredible scarcity of diamonds, we decided to dive deeper, beyond the 4 C’s and into the process of diamond cutting. Diamonds, are one of the hardest objects found on earth. In fact, Diamonds top the Moh’s scale of hardness at a 10. There are entire industries dedicated to making industrial tools that use diamonds for cutting through other materials. In fact, when cutting a diamond, diamond cutters will either use other diamonds or specialized lasers.

That being said, this presents diamond cutters an enormous challenge and tedious effort to bring it from a rare rough stone to the beautiful, valuable finished diamond! In this process, there is no room for error; every step must be meticulously scrutinized because one mishap and the profitability of the diamond will be affected.

The Process:

Determining Cut, Proportions and Size:

Being the most important C of the 4 C’s, the diamond cut refers to the diamonds proportions, symmetry and polish. This, according to Lumera, is the most important factor when determining the “beauty of a diamond”. The balance between the optimal cut (a combination of brilliance, fire and scintillation*) and carat weight, is crucial. Cuts too deep or too shallow will lose light entering the diamond. This light tends to escape through the bottom of the diamond.

This is where proportions come into play; the size, shape and angle of each facet of a diamond. Light entering the diamond in the forms of refraction and dispersion, will bounce within the diamond and then exit. The result, is white light separating into the visible color spectrum. Combining the shapes, angles, culet size, polish, symmetry and facet effects determines the cut grade. Please note, that this only refers to round diamonds which the GIA attributes a cut grade.

Cleaving or Sawing:

Once the diamond cutter has planned and mapped out the cut of the diamond (usually mapped with 3D imaging), the rough diamond must be cut into smaller, more manageable sizes. Cleaving, generally refers to cutting the diamond into smaller pieces along the diamond’s tetrahedral plane, the point where the diamond is the weakest. When no plane is present, due to odd shaped rough diamonds, cutters will use either a laser or a phosphor-bronze blade rotating at roughly 15,000 rotations per minute (How Stuff Works). It is at this point, where the diamond begins to take on its initial appearance.

Bruiting or Cutting:

This step is when the diamond truly takes form into its final product. This refers to the meticulous cutting (either by hand, bruiting, or mechanically with a lathe). As we mentioned before, it takes another diamond to cut a diamond. The first step, known as girdling, uses two diamonds spinning in opposite directions to create rough round stones.

Polishing:

The process of blocking and brillianteering will form the facets of the diamond (Beyond 4 C’s). During the blocking stage, diamond cutters add 8 pavilion mains, 8 corns, 1 cutlet and 1 table facet. They will add the remaining 57 facets during the brillianteering stage. By placing the diamond on a rotating arm and using a spinning wheel coated with an abrasive material made up of diamond dust, the diamond cutter determines the diamond’s fire and brilliance during this stage.

Inspecting:

Next, the diamond is inspected and graded. At Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers, we use G.I.A. certified diamonds for our diamond engagement rings.

For a deeper insight into the diamond cutting process, we recommending checking out the video below. Call Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers at one of our locations to schedule a consultation with one of our G.I.A.-certified gemologists. Check our the diamond cutting video below. Diamond cutting is the most important part of the pricing a diamond. Poor diamond cutting can damage the structure of a diamond.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDFKRySInVs

Notes

Brilliance refers to the brightness created by the combination of all the white light reflections from the surface and the inside of a polished diamond (Lumera)
Fire is the dispersion of light into the colors of the visible spectrum, seen as flashes of color (Lumera)
Scintillation are the flashes of light and dark, or sparkle when a diamond or light source is moved (Lumera)

Schwanke Kasten - Wedding Rings

From Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers

Tag Archives: Schwanke-Kasten