30 Mar

Cushion Cut Diamonds

A cushion cut diamond is the perfect answer for those torn between round brilliant and princess or square cut diamonds. Cushion cut diamonds were once the standard cut for diamonds, before round brilliant cuts took over. With their soft, rounded corners, cushion cut diamonds bridge the gap between round brilliant cuts and princess cuts. At Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers, we have a beautiful array of GIA certified cushion cut diamonds for your engagement ring or jewelry piece.

Cushion Cut Diamond Engagement Ring from Rahaminov

PROS & CONS of Cushion Cut Diamonds

Jewelers and recipients alike, enjoy this design for its classic and timeless aesthetic. Furthermore, gemologists have determined these cuts to have the most dispersion of light, or fire. Additionally, the jewelry market typically prices round brilliant cut diamonds higher than cushion cut for two reasons.

Demand
Less waste

However due to the deeper cut needed for this design, you will need to overcompensate with a larger stone than anticipated.

4 C’S

CUT:

Chunky vs Crushed Ice: Jewelers refer to these two terms when talking about the back facets and light reflections. If the light reflections appear in broad flashes, it refers to “chunky” aesthetic, if it appears as broken glass

"Crushed Ice" Cushion Cut — “Crushed Ice”

Length-to-Width Ration: Cushion cuts can come in “square” ratios as well as varying rectangle ratios. We should mention that you ought to avoid a length to width ration between 1.06 to 1.10.
Standard vs Modified Brilliant Cushion Cuts: Beginning in the 1920’s, diamond cutters added an extra row of facets beneath the girdle. However there is minimal affect on the beauty or structural integrity of the diamond.
Depth and Table: look for a cushion cuts with a depth and table under 70%. As well as symmetry and polish that is very good or excellent.

CARAT WEIGHT:

As we previously mentioned, cushion cuts tend to appear smaller than their round counterparts due to the depth of the cuts. That being said, if size is an issue, you may have to go larger than anticipated.

COLOR:

Cushion cuts show more color than round brilliant but this effect is negated by their brilliance and dispersion. However, we suggest looking for cushion cuts with color grades of I or higher.

CLARITY:

Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers tell shoppers to choose clarity grades of SI1 or higher as the integrity of the stone is not compromised as well as the aesthetic.

Email, text or call Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers today to learn more about cushion cut diamonds and how to set up a free consultation with one of our highly trained sales associates.

31 Jul

Diamond Clarity – 4 C’s

As we have been examining in-depth the elements that make-up the rare, natural diamond, we will take a look at the next property that gives diamonds their value – diamond clarity. According to the GIA, the clarity of a diamond refers to the “absence of inclusions and blemishes” (GIA). Due to the sheer amount of time, heat and pressure that occurs to form a diamond, irregularities may form. They may be internal (inclusions) irregularities to its carbon structure or external characteristics (blemishes) that can affect the clarity, and consequentially the value.

Diamond Clarity – Inclusions

Inclusions may occur from crystals from a foreign material, structural imperfections as well as defects arising from the cutting process. There are 10 types of inclusions that Beyond the 4 C’s, gives a great in-depth look at the various types of diamond inclusions should you be interested in learning more.

Blemishes

Blemishes on the other-hand are surface level attributes. They can occur due to structural imperfections and damages during the cutting process if handled incorrectly. There are 10 types as well.

GIA Clarity Grades

GIA certified diamonds became the standard of diamond grading in the 1950’s. Thus, most diamonds will be graded under the following scale for clarity which is based on visible inclusions and blemishes under a 10 x microscope (loupe) with a “dark field illumination”. It is as follows:

Flawless (FL) – no inclusions or blemishes visible under 10 x magnification
Internally Flawless (IF) – no visible inclusions under 10 x magnifications and small blemishes on surface
Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 & VVS2) – minute inclusions that are difficult to spot by a skilled grader under 10 x magnification
Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2) – minor inclusions that are somewhat easy to spot by a trained grader under 10 x magnification. Inclusions at this level are still likely to be invisible without magnification
Slightly Included (SI1 & SI2) – inclusions that are easy to spot when viewed under 10 x magnification
Included (I1, I2 and I3) – clearly visible to trained grader under 10 x magnification. These inclusions may threaten the durability and brilliance of the diamond.

In fact, on the GIA’s website, they have a wonderful interactive clarity chart that explains the various grades.

At Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers we use GIA certified diamonds from leading suppliers like Ritani, Forevermark and Naledi Engagement Rings. When purchasing a GIA certified diamond, you are provided a card detailing all the attributes of the diamond: cut, clarity, color and carat weight. Our goal is to provide you a confident and stress-free experience when shopping for your true love’s ring. Contact Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers today to schedule your personalized consultations with one of our GIA certified gemologists.

19 Jun

Diamond Color – Four C’s

Generally, when we think of diamonds we do not associate color to them. However, one of the four major “C’s” is diamond color or lack thereof. According to GIA, the foremost authority on diamond grading which Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers uses for their engagement rings, “a chemically pure and structurally perfect diamond has no hue, like a drop of clear water, and consequently, a higher value” (GIA).

Diamond Color

So EXACTLY how does a diamond not have color and how can a diamond inherit color? The most common occurrence with clear diamonds is the varying degrees of yellow/brown hues. This is graded on the universally accepted GIA scale from D – Z under very controlled lighting and viewing conditions. In fact, some of the color distinctions are “so subtle that they are invisible to the untrained eye; however, these distinctions make a very big difference in diamond quality and price” (GIA).

Colored Diamonds

However, jewelry auction house will place a premium on diamond color because they know they add value, just look at these incredibly expensive diamonds that have been sold lately! And while color can take away from the value of a normal clear diamond, it can also add tremendous value when the color is outside of the normal range of D – Z (delete color) grading. These colors can exist in the shades and hues of: red, blue, green, pink, yellow and even white and grey diamonds. As we mentioned before, these tend to occur because of one of two conditions.

Scientists know that chemical imperfections found in the diamond can cause color. Chemist believe high levels of hydrogen cause grey diamonds. They also know that a presence of boron can create blue diamonds, which are some of the rarest and often the most expensive.
Structural imperfections to the normal diamond lattice arrangement of carbon atoms can also lead to inclusions of color. Scientists believe green diamonds get their color from “radiation displacing carbon atoms from their normal positions in the crystal structure” (GIA).

In some cases, scientists are not even sure what causes the hue of a diamond. Pink diamonds are so rare that scientists can’t make a conclusion on the hue’s causation. However, it will likely be a matter of time before they discover a similarity among them.

Interestingly enough, GIA uses a separate scale to grade colored diamonds. The scale takes into consideration 27 hue varieties and saturation hue of 9 descriptors ranging from faint to fancy vivid.

Read more on Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers regarding the 4Cs and how to pick the perfect diamond for an engagement ring.

05 Jun

Diamond Cutting | Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers

As we have looked at the incredible scarcity of diamonds, we decided to dive deeper, beyond the 4 C’s and into the process of diamond cutting. Diamonds, are one of the hardest objects found on earth. In fact, Diamonds top the Moh’s scale of hardness at a 10. There are entire industries dedicated to making industrial tools that use diamonds for cutting through other materials. In fact, when cutting a diamond, diamond cutters will either use other diamonds or specialized lasers.

That being said, this presents diamond cutters an enormous challenge and tedious effort to bring it from a rare rough stone to the beautiful, valuable finished diamond! In this process, there is no room for error; every step must be meticulously scrutinized because one mishap and the profitability of the diamond will be affected.

The Process:

Determining Cut, Proportions and Size:

Being the most important C of the 4 C’s, the diamond cut refers to the diamonds proportions, symmetry and polish. This, according to Lumera, is the most important factor when determining the “beauty of a diamond”. The balance between the optimal cut (a combination of brilliance, fire and scintillation*) and carat weight, is crucial. Cuts too deep or too shallow will lose light entering the diamond. This light tends to escape through the bottom of the diamond.

This is where proportions come into play; the size, shape and angle of each facet of a diamond. Light entering the diamond in the forms of refraction and dispersion, will bounce within the diamond and then exit. The result, is white light separating into the visible color spectrum. Combining the shapes, angles, culet size, polish, symmetry and facet effects determines the cut grade. Please note, that this only refers to round diamonds which the GIA attributes a cut grade.

Cleaving or Sawing:

Once the diamond cutter has planned and mapped out the cut of the diamond (usually mapped with 3D imaging), the rough diamond must be cut into smaller, more manageable sizes. Cleaving, generally refers to cutting the diamond into smaller pieces along the diamond’s tetrahedral plane, the point where the diamond is the weakest. When no plane is present, due to odd shaped rough diamonds, cutters will use either a laser or a phosphor-bronze blade rotating at roughly 15,000 rotations per minute (How Stuff Works). It is at this point, where the diamond begins to take on its initial appearance.

Bruiting or Cutting:

This step is when the diamond truly takes form into its final product. This refers to the meticulous cutting (either by hand, bruiting, or mechanically with a lathe). As we mentioned before, it takes another diamond to cut a diamond. The first step, known as girdling, uses two diamonds spinning in opposite directions to create rough round stones.

Polishing:

The process of blocking and brillianteering will form the facets of the diamond (Beyond 4 C’s). During the blocking stage, diamond cutters add 8 pavilion mains, 8 corns, 1 cutlet and 1 table facet. They will add the remaining 57 facets during the brillianteering stage. By placing the diamond on a rotating arm and using a spinning wheel coated with an abrasive material made up of diamond dust, the diamond cutter determines the diamond’s fire and brilliance during this stage.

Inspecting:

Next, the diamond is inspected and graded. At Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers, we use G.I.A. certified diamonds for our diamond engagement rings.

For a deeper insight into the diamond cutting process, we recommending checking out the video below. Call Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers at one of our locations to schedule a consultation with one of our G.I.A.-certified gemologists. Check our the diamond cutting video below. Diamond cutting is the most important part of the pricing a diamond. Poor diamond cutting can damage the structure of a diamond.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDFKRySInVs

Notes

Brilliance refers to the brightness created by the combination of all the white light reflections from the surface and the inside of a polished diamond (Lumera)
Fire is the dispersion of light into the colors of the visible spectrum, seen as flashes of color (Lumera)
Scintillation are the flashes of light and dark, or sparkle when a diamond or light source is moved (Lumera)

01 Mar

The 4 C’s of Engagement Rings: Carat

The final post in our Schwanke-Kasten series exploring the “4 C’s of Engagement Rings,” we now turn our attention to “Carat.”

The weight of a diamond is measured in the unit called carat weight. As the weight of a diamond increases so does its rarity, and its price. Fewer than one in one million mined rough stones are large enough to produce a finished 1 carat diamond.

Source: Diamond Council of America

A metric “carat” is defined as 200 milligrams and every carat can be subdivided into 100 ‘points’ so a one carat diamond equals 100 points and a diamond of 75 points weights .75 carats. A diamond’s carat weight is written in decimal numbers, but it’s often expressed in fractions (a .70 – .83 is expressed as 3/4th of a carat).

Carat weight is often the most objective grade of all the 4Cs.

Read about the other “C’s” in our series:

15 Feb

The 4 C’s of Engagement Rings: Clarity

Schwanke-Kasten encourages you to consider the third installment in our 4 C’s series, a diamond’s clarity.

In fact, the diamond clarity refers to the presence, or absence, of tiny inclusions or birthmarks which occur during the forming period of the diamond. A lot of inclusions in a diamond can result in less light passing through, which reduces sparkle.

The G.I.A. created an 11-point clarity scale to grade diamonds, meaning they take into account size, color, number, and position of every flaw that is seen under a 10 x magnified lens:

FL: Flawless – No inclusions or blemishes. Extremely rare, in fact, the G.I.A. rates less than 1 in 5,000 diamonds as FL.

IF: Internal Flawless – No inclusions; blemishes are only visible under a 10 x microscope. Shockingly, the G.I.A. rates less than 3% of diamonds as IF.

VVS1/VVS2: Very, Very Slightly Included – Inclusions are very difficult to detect, even under magnification. Their appearance to the naked eye is extremely similar to IF graded diamonds

VS1/VS2: Very Slightly Included – Inclusions are clearly visible under 10x magnifications but are very hard to detect with the naked eye.

SI1/SI2: Slightly Included – The lowest grade of flaws that are typical invisible to the naked eye.

I1/I2/I3: Included – Inclusions are almost always visible to the naked eye. They are very obvious under 10 x magnification and often affect transparency and brilliance.

Anyways, Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers encourages you to come to our Whitefish Bay location to view our full selection of diamond engagement rings.

08 Feb

4 C’s of Engagement Rings: Color

With the second article of the 4 C’s series, Schwanke Kasten would like you to explore a diamond’s color. Diamond color refers to the presence of any color at all. A perfect diamond is completely colorless, allowing the most amount of light to pass through creating a wonderful effect. Along with being completely colorless, diamonds can also have a slight cloudy appearance or can contain some yellow color. The more color a diamond has the lower its quality and the less valuable the diamond is.

4 C's - Color | Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers

An alphabetical scale was developed by the Gemological Institute of America (G.I.A.) to represent a diamond’s color. The scale ranges from D – Z. (According to the G.I.A., the scale starts at D in order to differentiate itself from other scales at the time, all of which started with A)

D-F: Colorless

G-J: Near Colorless

K-M: Faint Yellow

N-R: Very Light Yellow

S-Z: Light Yellow

Obviously, it is ideal to purchase a diamond rated D-F. However, even though a diamond rated G-J might contain a minuscule amount of color, it is almost always invisible to the untrained eye, so it is perfect for someone whose budget doesn’t allow for them to purchase the highest rated diamonds.

Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers has a great selection of diamond engagement rings. Visit our diamonds on the Schwanke-Kasten website.

24 Jan

Diamond Cut – 4 C’s of Engagement Rings

The 4 C’s of are the main criteria you should use when purchasing a diamond engagement ring, which are cut, diamond color, diamond clarity, and carat weight. Let’s begin by exploring the first C, the diamond cutting.

Source: Wikipedia

Many consider the diamond’s cut as the most important of the 4 C’s. The cut has the biggest impact on the stone’s brilliance. Light play within the diamond is what we refer to as brilliance. There are a variety of different diamond cuts to choose from, and the different cuts will alter the look of your finished product. In 2005, the International Diamond Grading System released the GIA cut scale which is a uniform system used to determine the grade of round-cut diamonds.

Ideal Cut Diamonds

Ideal cut diamonds reflect nearly all light that enters the stone through the top which maximize the brilliance of a diamond and yields the highest possible grades of symmetry and polish.

Very Good Cut

Diamonds that sacrifice a little brilliance for a larger size. These are a cost-effective option.

Good cut

Quality diamonds, but do show a significant lack in brilliance.

Fair or Poor cut

Fair or Poor Cut Diamonds lack the ability to reflect a sufficient amount of light. They are usually shallow or deep cut and inexpensively priced.

Explore some of the best diamond cut by visiting with Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers.

Diamond cutters will train for years and years to be apt at cutting diamonds. The slightest mishap can have detrimental affects to the structure of the diamond as well as the value. Definitely make sure that you check the diamond’s, if it is a GIA certified diamond, cut grade. GIA Grading cards will give you valuable information regarding not only the cut of the diamond but the rest of the four c’s.

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