Tag Archives: diamond cutting

10 Apr

Princess Cut Diamonds

princess cut diamonds

Your true love is your princess; it’s only fitting to propose your undying love for her with a princess cut diamond engagement ring? This beautifully and interestingly square cut diamond is actually the second most popular style of diamond cut, below round but above cushion! At Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers, we decided to share with you all there is to know about princess cut diamonds

Princess Cut Diamonds History:

Surprisingly, diamond cutters have been only creating this style of cut for around 40 years to 50 years. Although it is hard to pinpoint, gemologist argue that a man named Basil Watermeyer created  the cut as the Barion Cut in the 1970’s, however this was a combination of an emerald cut and a marquise cut. Others point to Arpad Nagy, a London Based diamond cutter, who created the what was then known as the “profile cut” back in 1961. started seeing demand for this style around the 1970’s. Israeli diamond cutters, Betzalel Amber and Israel Itzkowitz popularized Nagy’s cut several years later under the name Princess Cut, which was a “fancy French inspired cut”.

The Cut:

The princess cut was designed to have a modern, clean and feminine look to it. It is actually a modified square cut stone. Typically, princess cut diamonds appear as square, sometimes rectangle. On the profile, the stone has an inverted pyramid shape with four beveled sides. These stones typically have between 60 to 70 facets. Furthermore, because they retain, on average, 80% of the original rough stone, they are prone to having more inclusions than a round brillian cut. Which is not a negative, this allows the uniquely cut ring to have a very interesting and gorgeous light play to it!

The Cost:

Because Princess Cut Diamond only lose 20% of the rough stone when being cut (compared to 40-50% of a round diamond) they are a less expensive cut when all other factors are held constant (i.e. the 4 C’s).

Similar Cuts:

Cushion Cuts – have larger facets than princess cuts which increase their brilliance and highlight the clarity. However, they do not have as sharp of a sparkle and have an older, more vintage feel. Furthermore, they do not have as sharp of edges as princess cuts.

Round Brilliant – The most popular style of ring tends to look bigger when comparing the same carat weight stone. However, due to the cutting process, they are more expensive when all factors are held constant.

Asscher Cut – Similarly cut to a princess cut but with step cuts (a commonly found on emeralds, hence the name, emerald cut).

Famous Princess Cuts
Emily Ratajkowski Engagement Ring
Emily Ratajkowski Engagement Ring
  • Chicago Cubs World Series Rings features two princess cut diamond, among others.
  • Emily Ratajkowski – When choosing an engagement ring, she couldn’t decide between a princess cut or a pear cut, so she got both!
  • Cameron Diaz
  • Snooki – Everyone’s favorite Jersey Shore socialite has an engagement ring with a princess cut center stone.
Snooki Engagement Ring - princess cut diamonds
Snooki Engagement Ring

At Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers, our professionally trained sales team and GIA-certified gemologist are eager to help you find the perfect diamond for the perfect engagement ring. Visit Schwanke-Kasten in one of our two convenient Milwaukee Locations (Downtown Milwaukee and Whitefish Bay).

05 Jun

Diamond Cutting | Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers

couple with a diamond engagement ring

As we have looked at the incredible scarcity of diamonds, we decided to dive deeper, beyond the 4 C’s and into the process of diamond cutting. Diamonds,  are one of the hardest objects found on earth. In fact, Diamonds top the Moh’s scale of hardness at a 10. There are entire industries dedicated to making industrial tools that use diamonds for cutting through other materials. In fact, when cutting a diamond, diamond cutters will either use other diamonds or specialized lasers.

That being said, this presents diamond cutters an enormous challenge and tedious effort to bring it from a rare rough stone to the beautiful, valuable finished diamond! In this process, there is no room for error; every step must be meticulously scrutinized because one mishap and the profitability of the diamond will be affected. diamond necklace jewelry

The Process:

Determining Cut, Proportions and Size:

Being the most important C of the 4 C’s, the diamond cut refers to the diamonds proportions, symmetry and polish. This, according to Lumera, is the most important factor when determining the “beauty of a diamond”. The balance between the optimal cut (a combination of brilliance, fire and scintillation*) and carat weight, is crucial. Cuts too deep or too shallow will lose light entering the diamond. This light tends to escape through the bottom of the diamond.

This is where proportions come into play; the size, shape and angle of each facet of a diamond. Light entering the diamond in the forms of refraction and dispersion, will bounce within the diamond and then exit. The result, is white light separating into the visible color spectrum. Combining the shapes, angles, culet size, polish, symmetry and facet effects determines the cut grade. Please note, that this only refers to round diamonds which the GIA attributes a cut grade.

Cleaving or Sawing:

Once the diamond cutter has planned and mapped out the cut of the diamond (usually mapped with 3D imaging), the rough diamond must be cut into smaller, more manageable sizes. Cleaving, generally refers to cutting the diamond into smaller pieces along the diamond’s tetrahedral plane, the point where the diamond is the weakest. When no plane is present, due to odd shaped rough diamonds, cutters will use either a laser or a phosphor-bronze blade rotating at roughly 15,000 rotations per minute (How Stuff Works). It is at this point, where the diamond begins to take on its initial appearance.

Bruiting or Cutting:

This step is when the diamond truly takes form into its final product. This refers to the meticulous cutting (either by hand, bruiting, or mechanically with a lathe). As we mentioned before, it takes another diamond to cut a diamond. The first step, known as girdling, uses two diamonds spinning in opposite directions to create rough round stones.

Polishing:

The process of blocking and brillianteering will form the facets of the diamond (Beyond 4 C’s). During the blocking stage, diamond cutters add 8 pavilion mains, 8 corns, 1 cutlet and 1 table facet. They will add the remaining 57 facets during the brillianteering stage. By placing the diamond on a rotating arm and using a spinning wheel coated with an abrasive material made up of diamond dust, the diamond cutter determines the diamond’s fire and brilliance during this stage.

Inspecting:

Next, the diamond is inspected and graded. At Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers, we use G.I.A. certified diamonds for our diamond engagement rings.

For a deeper insight into the diamond cutting process, we recommending checking out the video below. Call Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers at one of our locations to schedule a consultation with one of our G.I.A.-certified gemologists. Check our the diamond cutting video below. Diamond cutting is the most important part of the pricing a diamond. Poor diamond cutting can damage the structure of a diamond.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDFKRySInVs

Notes

  • Brilliance refers to the brightness created by the combination of all the white light reflections from the surface and the inside of a polished diamond (Lumera)
  • Fire is the dispersion of light into the colors of the visible spectrum, seen as flashes of color (Lumera)
  • Scintillation are the flashes of light and dark, or sparkle when a diamond or light source is moved (Lumera)