20 Jun

Carat Weight – 4 C’s of Diamonds

Today we finish our “Making of a Diamond” exposé with an in-depth look at carat weight. When a jeweler refers to the overall weight of a stone, the are referring to the carat total weight or CTW. It’s important to note, karat and carat are not the same. Karat is associated with gold purity, whereas carat measures how much diamond weight is in a particular jewelry piece.

Carat Weight Origins

So, where did the word “carat” comes from? Hundreds of years ago, traders used a carob for determining the weight of gemstones. A carob is a small seed from the St. John’s beard (or locust bean) plant) which is consistently uniform in size and weight; perfect for determining carat weight of diamonds. Jewelers and gemologist began officially using the term “carat” in 1907. Now, jewelers and shoppers universally use “carat” to measure diamonds and other valuable gemstones. One carat is equal to 200 mg (.02g), which is another way of looking at carat weight. The GIA likens carat weight to comparing a dollar to pennies. In other words, think of it “as a dollar divided into 100 pennies, a carat is divided into 100 points” (GIA).

It is worth noting, while the overall carat weight can increase the stone’s value (all other properties held equal), two stone of equal carat weight can have vastly different values due to differences in the other Four C’s. Jewelers will typically describe a diamond to the hundredth of a carat. However gemologist measure diamonds to the hundred thousandth due to the stone’s value.

At Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers, we have a variety of GIA certified diamonds of all sizes to meet the budget for your dream stone. Should you have any questions or would like to schedule an appointment with one of our GIA certified gemologist, please do not hesitate to reach out to Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers.

19 Jun

Diamond Color – Four C’s

Generally, when we think of diamonds we do not associate color to them. However, one of the four major “C’s” is diamond color or lack thereof. According to GIA, the foremost authority on diamond grading which Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers uses for their engagement rings, “a chemically pure and structurally perfect diamond has no hue, like a drop of clear water, and consequently, a higher value” (GIA).

Diamond Color

So EXACTLY how does a diamond not have color and how can a diamond inherit color? The most common occurrence with clear diamonds is the varying degrees of yellow/brown hues. This is graded on the universally accepted GIA scale from D – Z under very controlled lighting and viewing conditions. In fact, some of the color distinctions are “so subtle that they are invisible to the untrained eye; however, these distinctions make a very big difference in diamond quality and price” (GIA).

Colored Diamonds

However, jewelry auction house will place a premium on diamond color because they know they add value, just look at these incredibly expensive diamonds that have been sold lately! And while color can take away from the value of a normal clear diamond, it can also add tremendous value when the color is outside of the normal range of D – Z (delete color) grading. These colors can exist in the shades and hues of: red, blue, green, pink, yellow and even white and grey diamonds. As we mentioned before, these tend to occur because of one of two conditions.

Scientists know that chemical imperfections found in the diamond can cause color. Chemist believe high levels of hydrogen cause grey diamonds. They also know that a presence of boron can create blue diamonds, which are some of the rarest and often the most expensive.
Structural imperfections to the normal diamond lattice arrangement of carbon atoms can also lead to inclusions of color. Scientists believe green diamonds get their color from “radiation displacing carbon atoms from their normal positions in the crystal structure” (GIA).

In some cases, scientists are not even sure what causes the hue of a diamond. Pink diamonds are so rare that scientists can’t make a conclusion on the hue’s causation. However, it will likely be a matter of time before they discover a similarity among them.

Interestingly enough, GIA uses a separate scale to grade colored diamonds. The scale takes into consideration 27 hue varieties and saturation hue of 9 descriptors ranging from faint to fancy vivid.

Read more on Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers regarding the 4Cs and how to pick the perfect diamond for an engagement ring.

05 Jun

Diamond Cutting | Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers

As we have looked at the incredible scarcity of diamonds, we decided to dive deeper, beyond the 4 C’s and into the process of diamond cutting. Diamonds, are one of the hardest objects found on earth. In fact, Diamonds top the Moh’s scale of hardness at a 10. There are entire industries dedicated to making industrial tools that use diamonds for cutting through other materials. In fact, when cutting a diamond, diamond cutters will either use other diamonds or specialized lasers.

That being said, this presents diamond cutters an enormous challenge and tedious effort to bring it from a rare rough stone to the beautiful, valuable finished diamond! In this process, there is no room for error; every step must be meticulously scrutinized because one mishap and the profitability of the diamond will be affected.

The Process:

Determining Cut, Proportions and Size:

Being the most important C of the 4 C’s, the diamond cut refers to the diamonds proportions, symmetry and polish. This, according to Lumera, is the most important factor when determining the “beauty of a diamond”. The balance between the optimal cut (a combination of brilliance, fire and scintillation*) and carat weight, is crucial. Cuts too deep or too shallow will lose light entering the diamond. This light tends to escape through the bottom of the diamond.

This is where proportions come into play; the size, shape and angle of each facet of a diamond. Light entering the diamond in the forms of refraction and dispersion, will bounce within the diamond and then exit. The result, is white light separating into the visible color spectrum. Combining the shapes, angles, culet size, polish, symmetry and facet effects determines the cut grade. Please note, that this only refers to round diamonds which the GIA attributes a cut grade.

Cleaving or Sawing:

Once the diamond cutter has planned and mapped out the cut of the diamond (usually mapped with 3D imaging), the rough diamond must be cut into smaller, more manageable sizes. Cleaving, generally refers to cutting the diamond into smaller pieces along the diamond’s tetrahedral plane, the point where the diamond is the weakest. When no plane is present, due to odd shaped rough diamonds, cutters will use either a laser or a phosphor-bronze blade rotating at roughly 15,000 rotations per minute (How Stuff Works). It is at this point, where the diamond begins to take on its initial appearance.

Bruiting or Cutting:

This step is when the diamond truly takes form into its final product. This refers to the meticulous cutting (either by hand, bruiting, or mechanically with a lathe). As we mentioned before, it takes another diamond to cut a diamond. The first step, known as girdling, uses two diamonds spinning in opposite directions to create rough round stones.

Polishing:

The process of blocking and brillianteering will form the facets of the diamond (Beyond 4 C’s). During the blocking stage, diamond cutters add 8 pavilion mains, 8 corns, 1 cutlet and 1 table facet. They will add the remaining 57 facets during the brillianteering stage. By placing the diamond on a rotating arm and using a spinning wheel coated with an abrasive material made up of diamond dust, the diamond cutter determines the diamond’s fire and brilliance during this stage.

Inspecting:

Next, the diamond is inspected and graded. At Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers, we use G.I.A. certified diamonds for our diamond engagement rings.

For a deeper insight into the diamond cutting process, we recommending checking out the video below. Call Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers at one of our locations to schedule a consultation with one of our G.I.A.-certified gemologists. Check our the diamond cutting video below. Diamond cutting is the most important part of the pricing a diamond. Poor diamond cutting can damage the structure of a diamond.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDFKRySInVs

Notes

Brilliance refers to the brightness created by the combination of all the white light reflections from the surface and the inside of a polished diamond (Lumera)
Fire is the dispersion of light into the colors of the visible spectrum, seen as flashes of color (Lumera)
Scintillation are the flashes of light and dark, or sparkle when a diamond or light source is moved (Lumera)

09 May

Diamonds Throughout History | Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers

Two monumental diamond sales already slated in 2017, so we decided to take an in-depth look into diamond history. We are going a step further and examining stories behind some of the more famous stones as well.

The Origins – Diamond History

The G.I.A., the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones and pearls, states diamond history can be set as early as the 4^th century BC in India, when diamonds were given value. (G.I.A. – “Diamond History Lore”). Various trade routes, helped diamond appear in countries like France and Italy. By the 14^th century, diamonds had become the fashion norm across Europe, and the importance of diamond cutting emerged in Venice (CBS – “Diamond History”). The supply source in India declined, due to demand, which caused the value to increase. This demand obviously led explorers and entrepreneurs to venture elsewhere. And in the 1700’s, Brazil became a powerhouse in the diamond industry. They dominated the market place for over 150 years (G.I.A.)!

The Modern Diamond Industry

In 1866 miners discovered a large deposit of diamonds in Kimberly, South Africa. This began the modern diamond industry. Hence the name Kimberlite tunnels. One of the most famous diamonds, Star of South Africa, was unearthed three years later. Originally an 83.5 carat rough diamond, was cut to a 47.69 carat pear-shaped diamond, and traded for “500 hundred sheep, ten oxen and a horse” (Famous Diamonds – “Star of South Africa Diamond”). Then, in 1888, a young entrepreneur named Cecil Rhodes established the De Beers Consolidated Mines Limited, which at one point “controlled up to 90% of rough diamond production in the world”.

De Beers

“In the 1870’s, annual production of rough diamond was well under a million carats. By the 1920’s, the figure was around three million carats. Fifty years later, annual production approached 50 million carats, and in the 1990’s it surpassed 100 million carats per year”, (G.I.A.). Prior to 1947, engagement rings rarely used diamonds. It wasn’t until the De Beers hired N.W. Ayer (an advertising agency) to come-up with the world-famous slogan, “A Diamond is Forever”, that the diamond marketplace changed forever. This slogan was so effective that Ad Age deemed it the slogan of the century. According to The Atlantic, in the proceeding 40 years, “De Beers’ wholesale diamond sales in the United States increased from $23 million to $2.1 billion (U.S.D.)”.

Current Market

Australia, Botswana, Russia, Congo Republic, Canada, South Africa and India produce the majority of natural diamonds. For more incredible stories behind many famous diamonds, we recommend checking out this site. In the meantime, we invite you to take a look at Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers’ expansive diamond jewelry selection and G.I.A. certified diamond engagement rings. Rings that reflect the beauty of your true love.

This link is a brief timeline of the history of some very famous diamonds.

Hope you enjoyed!

20 Apr

Making of a Diamond |Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers

With the DIAMOND being April’s birthstone and used is almost every engagement ring mounting, we thought it would be only fitting to share with you, “The Making of a Diamond”.

In fact, this past month, we witnessed the largest internally flawless diamond the GIA has ever graded sold for $71.2 Million (USD)! The Pink Star was cut from a 132.50 carat rough diamond back in 1999 and then polished by master diamond cutters for over two years. The end product produced a 59.60 carat diamond that was fancy vivid pink color.

The Making of a Diamond

Despite popular opinion, most natural diamonds are, in fact, not made of compressed coal. We will call that the Superman Theory.

In fact, “Almost every diamond that has been dated was formed during the Precambrian Eon – the span of time between Earth’s formation (about 4,600 million years ago) and the start of the Cambrian Period (about 542 million years ago). In contrast, the earliest land plants did not appear on Earth until about 450 million years ago. Moreover, this is nearly 100 million years after the formation of virtually all of Earth’s natural diamonds.” – Geology.com

How do diamonds form?

In fact, the formation of natural diamond requires very specific conditions. According to Live Science, nature’s recipe for diamonds is the following:

Bury carbon dioxide 100 miles into the Earth
Heat to about 2,200 degrees Fahrenheit
Apply pressure of 725,000 pounds per square inch (hence Superman)
Quickly rush towards Earth’s surface to cool.

There are two places on earth that meet those conditions; in the lithospheric mantle (right below the continental plates) and at the site of a meteorite strike.

Deep Source Eruptions

The most common way diamonds are formed are from “Deep Source Eruptions” – a process that can take upwards to 1 billion years!

The mantle produces immense pressure and heat to form diamonds. After forming, deep volcanic-like eruptions violently thrust the diamonds towards the crust. These produce kimberlite and lamproite pipes.
- Kimberlite pipes (named after the city where the Star of South Africa was discovered) are the most important carrier of diamonds and garnets, forming in a carrot shape between 93 and 280 miles beneath the surface. These pipes allow exotic minerals from the mantle to surface (Science Daily).
- Lamproite pipes are a far more common occurrence yet rarely prove to be a reliable source for diamonds. Scientists say the difference between Lamproite pipes and Kimberlite pipes are that Lamproite are shaped like champagne flutes and shallower than Kimberlite pipes.
There are three other ways that scientists have discovered diamond creations but are far rarer than Deep Source Eruptions.
- Subduction Zones:
  - Scientists believe that minerals, previously subducted by an oceanic plate going under a continental plate due to plate tectonics are another form that may actually involve coal as a source of carbon! However, this is also incredibly rare.
- The other two deal with extraterrestrial objects entering the Earth’s atmosphere and the rarest!
  - Asteroid Impacts
  - Meteorite Fall

Next time you are looking at diamonds remember the amount of time and extraordinary circumstances needed to create them. Explore some of our extraordinary diamond jewelry, and stay tuned as we look into the history of diamonds in the modern world!

15 Feb

Wedding Day Customs

Depending on the culture and country, there are many wedding day customs. Some wedding day customs are thought to bring good luck or avoid back luck!

For Protection:

The ancient Romans and Greeks believed that a bride’s veil would protect her from evil spirts, and it quickly became a tradition which is still seen today.
To protect women from evil spirits in their home, men carried their brides over the threshold.
Bells were believed to ward off evil spirits, and the Irish tradition of church bells ringing for a wedding is still widely used today. Bells are also popular wedding gifts for continued protection.

For Good luck:

Traditionally, rice is thrown at the bride and groom for good luck. But in the Czech, they throw peas.
To sweeten the marriage, a Greek bride will slip a sugar cube in her glove.
In Egypt, women pinch the bride on her wedding day.
Giving knives to newlyweds represent a broken relationship therefore they should not be gifted.
The English believe that finding a spider on your wedding dress symbolizes good luck!
The Italian tradition of breaking a glass dates back centuries, and it’s said that the number of broken pieces will represent how many years of happiness the couple will have. Grooms are known to work hard to smash the glass.

No matter the custom or tradition, a wedding is a time to celebrate love, happiness and the future! Furthermore, Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers has a great selection of wedding gifts and bridal jewelry.

15 Jan

Wedding Ring History

Ever wonder about wedding ring history? Questions like, why it is traditional to wear the engagement and wedding rings on the fourth ring finger of the left hand? Well, that dates all the way back to the Egyptians who wore a band, with no beginning and no end, on the fourth finger because they believed that the vena amoris (vein of love) ran from the heart to this fingertip. This has been medically disproven, but the ring location is still widely used by many cultures.

The tradition of wearing a ring didn’t become commonplace until the Roman Times. During the Roman Time it became a statement of commitment as well as a man’s ownership of his woman. They were also the first to engrave their rings.

However some countries, including Norway, Germany, Austria and Spain, wear their wedding rings on their right hand. And some follow the Jewish tradition of wearing the ring on the index finger.

Stop by Schwanke Kasten to explore our engagement rings.

15 Dec

Past Ring Styles

Did you know that the current trend of gold wedding bands was not always the norm? Join Schwanke Kasten Jewelers as we explore past ring styles.

Past ring styles from the 1600’s and 1700’s were known as Posies. They were made of simple gold or silver bands with a line of poetry engraved inside of them. During the Victorian age, engagement rings were whimsical and fun with designs of hearts and flowers. The 1920’s brought geometric shaped rings with diamonds and sapphires and rubies. Furthermore, the 1950’s saw stackable rings with small diamonds on bands of white, pink, and yellow gold.

These days you still see family heirlooms passed down as engagement rings. This could also mean that a traditional diamond is out and sometimes another type of gem or stone will land in its place. It’s also popular to choose an antique ring that fits the personality of the bride and carries history and perhaps a story that symbolizes their relationship. Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers has been the Milwaukee engagement ring store of choice for generations.

15 Nov

Modern Engagement Rings

Falling in love and committing to another person is a very big deal. When you’re thinking about getting married, it’s clearly the biggest decision of your life. Traditionally a man or women would purchase the ring without much input from their lover. However, it is 2016 and it is well time to modernize the wedding selection. Modern Engagement Rings and engagement ring shopping should involve both parties because the one receiving the ring will be wearing it for a lifetime.

When ring shopping, there are many types of diamonds to choose from. Yellow diamonds are the most popular, but they also come in other colors including vary rare pink, green, red and blue. Scientist are able to create diamonds in laboratories. However the bulk of valuable diamonds are organic and mined. There are also various cuts to choose from, like princess, pear, oval, heart, round, radiant, and more.

With less traditional couples also come less traditional proposals. It is more common today to see couples ring shopping together after the proposal. This allows them both to choose the perfect ring and size. Schwanke-Kasten has a wide array on modern engagement rings for couples to choose from.

15 Oct

Unique Engagement Rings

Gold or Platinum Diamond solitaire rings are the traditional choice for engagement rings, but what if you’re for unique engagement rings? An engagement ring is one that may be worn for a lifetime, so it’s important that you carefully consider what would be most loved and enjoyed by the wearer.

Unique Stones

Diamonds are the traditional choice for engagement rings, but diamonds don’t have to be white. Colored diamonds like yellow, pink, or even chocolate diamonds can add an unconventional twist to a conventional choice. You might opt for a non-diamond engagement ring, like Emerald, Ruby, or Sapphire. Another option would be to incorporate the birthstones of the couple into the ring. Schwanke-Kasten has a wide range of non-diamond engagement rings

Unique Metals

Platinum and Gold are traditional choices. However colored metals like tri-color gold or rose gold rings can add a unique twist.

Custom Designs

Don’t feel restricted to choosing a design off the shelf. An engagement ring is a very personal purchase. The wearer will love and appreciate a custom design ring for the time and effort put it. Working with a jeweler to create a custom engagement ring can often result in a ring as unique as the bride.

Schwanke Kasten - Wedding Rings

From Schwanke-Kasten Jewelers